I was elected one of the Comptrollers of the Middle Temple revellers, as the fashion of the young students and gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept this year with great solemnity; but, being desirous to pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of office, and went with my brother Richard to Wotton.
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After receiving the Sacrament at Wotton church, I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury.
On the 31st of that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, which broke out on the 23rd ((Upon which day was planned the surprise of Dublin Castle and the rising in Ulster. -AD))), I was one and twenty years of age.
The next morning by Sittingbourne, I came to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light-horseman (as they call it (( According to Smyth’s Sailors Word-Book, this is “ an old
name for the light boat, since named gig.” –AD))) taking us in, we spent our tide as far as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little refreshed ourselves at the College (for by reason of contagion then in London we balked ((Avoided, gave the go-by to. –AD)) the inns), we came to London, landing at Arundel stairs ((Arundel Stairs provided access to Arundel House, home of the Earl of Arundel, from the Thames. Austin Dobson writes in a footnote “[the stairs] were at the bottom of Arundel Street, near the present Arundel Hotel.” )). Here I took leave of his Lordship, and retired to my lodgings in the Middle Temple, being about two in the morning, the 14th of October.
About midnight, we weighed; and, at four in the morning, though not far from Dover, we could not make the pier till four that afternoon, the wind proving contrary and driving us westward: but at last we got on shore, October the 12th.
From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. Here I visited the cathedral, then in great splendor; those famous windows being entire, since demolished by the fanatics ((In 1643, Richard Culmer, a fanatical divine, known as “Blue Dick,” was commissioned by the Parliament to destroy the stained glass of Canterbury Cathedral. –AD)).
From hence, the next day, I marched three English miles toward the packet boat, being a pretty frigate of six guns, which embarked us for England about three in the afternoon.
At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace anchored saluted my Lord Marshal with twelve great guns, which we answered with three. Not having the wind favorable, we anchored that night before Calais.
I went by wagon, accompanied with a jovial commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the sea sands. On our arrival, we first viewed the court of guards, the works, the townhouse, and the new church; the latter is very beautiful within; and another, wherein they showed us an excellent piece of “Our Savior’s Bearing the Cross.” ((Probably The Church of St. Eloi which was burned in 1558 with reconstruction started in 1567 – GS)) The harbor, in two channels, coming up to the town, was choked with a multitude of prizes.
The 9th, we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial river. Here, with leave of the captain of the watch, I was carried to survey the river and harbor, with fortifications on one side thereof: the east and south are mud and earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately stood a memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks, and three days ((The Siege of Ostend was a three-year siege of the city of Ostend during the Eighty Years’ War and one of the longest in history. Described as a “long carnival of death”, it is remembered as the bloodiest conflict of the war, and culminated in a Spanish victory by General Spinola. It is said “the Spanish assailed the unassailable; the Dutch defended the indefensible.” -Wikipedia. Austin Dobson remarks “From 1601 to 1604, when it finally yielded to Spinola, but only by command of the States-General, who, owing to its obstinate resistance, had gained their ends. ‘)). I went to see the church of St. Peter, and the cloisters of the Franciscans.
I passed by a boat to Bruges, taking in at a redoubt a convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the other side of the river, being Contribution-land, was subject to the inroads and depredations of the bordering States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis Spinola, and is in my judgment a wonderful piece of labor, and a worthy public work, being in some places forced through the main rock, to an incredible depth, for thirty miles. At the end of each mile is built a small redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so the whole way, from whence we received many volleys of shot, in compliment to my Lord Marshal, who was in our vessel, a passenger with us. At five that evening, we were met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained that night.
The morning after we went to see the Stadt-house and adjoining aqueduct, the church, and market-place, where we saw cheeses and butter piled up in heaps; also the fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large.
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